Klik hier voor de Nederlandse versie 

Links & Other handy info

  • Set up a Ravelry project page here, give it a heart or put it into your queue for later
  • Buy a PDF version on Ravelry or on Etsy for a small fee (this will help me make patterns and in return it will get you a ready-to-print PDF as well as a printerfriendly PDF option)
  • Use #seaofflamesshawl on social media, so I won’t miss all your pretty shawls!
  • This design is inspired by the book ‘All the light we cannot see’ by Anthony Doerr. Find it on Goodreads here.
  • This design is part of the Read-With-Me-Collection. Find all patterns in this collection here.
  • See more pictures in the reveal post here. And check out the post about the used yarn here.

The Story

The Sea of Flames, a diamond highly sought after, with supposedly magical powers. What is so special about this blue stone with red center?

The story goes that, centuries ago, a prince of Borneo found the Sea of Flames between the pebbles of a dried-up riverbed. He was stabbed and robbed by a few men on the way back to his palace and miraculously survived with the stone still clenched in his hand. He had the stone set into his crown, because he believed it brought him good luck. The opposite seemed more true, because while the stone shone in his crown and dazzled everyone with the abundant light, bad luck fell upon everyone around him.

The prince called for his advisers, among them a priest. The priest had a dream that the Goddess of the Earth made the Sea of Flames for the God of the Sea. She gifted it to him by putting it in the river, but when the prince plucked the stone out of the river bed, she got furious and cursed the stone. The curse goes that the keeper of the stone will live forever, but that misfortune will happen to all those he loved. The prince decided to keep the stone, because it had saved his life, but everyone around him died, invaders came and destroyed the palace. He was never seen again and for 200 years, no one heard of the stone either. Until now… 

If you want to know the rest of the story and how it came into the hands of the protagonist of ‘All the light we cannot see’, please read the book : )

Yarn

Scheepjes Stone Washed (SW) and River Washed (RW)* (regular, not XL), 130m/50g. 1 ball of each:

Color A – RW 946,  9g used
Color B – SW 807, 28g used
Color C – SW 835, 46g used
Color D – RW 942, 41g used
Color E – RW 949, 34g used
Color F – RW 941, 39g used
Color G – RW 948, 41g used
Color H – SW 824, 48g used
Color I – RW 952, 27g used
Color J – SW 815, 25g used
Color K – SW 828, 44g used

Shop this yarn

If you don’t have a retailer nearby, please consider buying your Scheepjes Stone Washed and River Washed via one of the links below. It will give me a small commission, but it won’t cost you anything extra.

Canada/US: Knotty House

UK/International: Wool Warehouse or Black Sheep Wools

Here’s a list of all Scheepjes retailers: Scheepjes Website

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Notions 

Gauge & Size 

Measurements: The shawl has a wingspan (A) of 170cm/68”, a depth (B) of 61cm/24.4” and a short side (C) of 71cm/28.4” after blocking.

Gauge: 10x10cm (4×4”) = 10 rows and 8 stitches in dc-v stitch, using a 4,5mm hook.

Pattern for swatch:

Setup: With 4,5mm hook and color B; ch28

R1: in 5th ch from hook {= first ch3 and sk 1 ch}; *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in chain, sk next 2 chains* work between * * 7 times, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next chain, sk next chain, 1dc in last chain, ch3, turn. {turning chains never count as a stitch}

R2: sk first dc, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in ch1-sp of each v-st, 1dc in space between last v-st and turning-ch3, ch3, turn.

Repeat R2 until you have worked 10 rows in total. Your swatch should now be 10x10cm (4×4″) 

Notes & Helpful Tips 

  • The pattern tells you when you’re working on the wrong side (WS) or right side (RS). To check: when the increase side is on your right, you’re working on the right side, when the increase side is on your left, you’re working on the wrong side.
  • Weave in your ends after each new repeat, it will save you time and agony at the end : )

Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms) 

ch chain
ch-sp chain space
st stitch
sl st slip stitch
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
v-st V-stitch
sl st-v slip stitch V-stitch: [sl st, ch2, sl st] in same space
sc-v single crochet V-stitch: [1sc, ch2, 1sc] in same space
hdc-v half double crochet V-stitch: [1hdc, ch1, 1hdc] in same space
dc-v double crochet V-stitch: [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in same space
inc hdc-v increase hdc-V: [1hdc, ch1, 1hdc, ch1, 1hdc] in same space
inc dc-v increase dc-V: [1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc] in same space
sk skip
rep repeat
RS right side of your work
WS wrong side of your work
[…] work between brackets for the number of times indicated in the pattern
*…* work between asterisk for the number of times indicated in the pattern
{abc} notes and references to pictures are given between these brackets in cursive     

The Pattern 

R1 (RS) with color A; ch4 {= 1dc and ch1-sp}, 1dc in first ch, ch3 {= turning chain, doesn’t count as a st, here and throughout}, turn.
Stitch count:
1 dc-v

R2 (WS) inc dc-v in the ch1-sp, ch3, turn.
Stitch count: 1 inc dc-v

R3          dc-v in ch1-sp of each v-st across, 1dc in space between last dc-v and turning chain {see arrow pic R3}, ch3, turn.
Stitch count: 2 dc-v, 1 dc

R4          rep R3.
Stitch count: 2 dc-v, 1 dc

R5          inc dc-v in ch1-sp of first v-st, dc-v in ch1-sp of each v-st across, 1dc in space between last v-st and turning chain, ch3, turn.
Stitch count: 1 dc-v, 1 inc dc-v, 1 dc  

R6&7 rep R3 twice.
Stitch count: 3 dc-v, 1 dc

R8          dc-v in ch1-sp of each v-st until the last v-st, inc dc-v in ch1-sp of last v-st, 1dc in space between last v-st and turning chain, ch3, turn.
Stitch count: 2 dc-v, 1 inc dc-v, 1 dc

R9&10 rep R3 twice, at the end of R10; change to color B in the last dc {see notes and pic1&2 below}, omit the last ch3, turn. Don’t fasten off color A, just let it hang at the side.
Stitch count: 4 dc-v, 1 dc

Notes about changing colors:

  • To minimize the number of ends, the yarn is not always cut and the working yarn is hanging at the side instead, while working with the new color. When you need the old color, it’s picked up again. Please follow the pattern closely; only cut yarn when the pattern tells you and change colors like described. Also, the pattern tells you when to turn and on which side to work. Don’t worry about sloppy edges, because we will hide it with a simple border.
  • You sometimes need to change colors in the last stitch of the row.

See this tutorial for how to do that for a sc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6979knxSLKM
See this tutorial for how to do that for a hdc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD_kY4-cnKY
See this tutorial for how to do that for a dc:  http://www.stitchdiva.com/tutorials/crochet/changing-colors-at-the-beginning-of-a-row-or-round

Note: The pics used below are made of later rows, so please don’t get confused because of that. 

R11 (RS) using color B, sl st in space between first dc and first v-st {arrow pic 1}; ch1, sl st-v in ch1-sp of each v-st across {loosely to prevent pulling}, sl st in space between last dc-v and turning chain, fasten off color B.
Stitch count: 4 sl st-v, 2 sl st

R12 (RS) with the RS facing again, pick up color A again with a sl st through the space between the first dc and first v-st of R10 {pic 1}; ch3 {pic 2}, inc dc-v in first sl st-v, dc-v in ch2-sp of each v-st across {pic 3}, 1dc in space between last dc-v and turning chain {working over the last sl st}, ch3, turn.
Stitch count: 3 dc-v, 1 inc dc-v, 1 dc

R13 (WS) rep R3, omitting the ch3 at the end, change to color B in last dc. Don’t fasten off color A.
Stitch count: 5 dc-v, 1 dc

R14 (RS) rep R11.
Stitch count: 5 sl st-v, 2 sl st

R15 (RS) pick up color A again with a sl st through the space between the first dc and first v-st of R13; ch3, dc-v in ch2-sp of each v-st across, 1dc in space between last dc-v and turning chain {working over the last sl st}, ch3, turn.
Stitch count: 5 dc-v, 1 dc

R16 (WS) rep R8, omitting the last ch3 at the end, change to color B in last dc. Don’t fasten off color A, turn.
Stitch count: 4 dc-v, 1 inc dc-v, 1 dc

R17 (RS) rep R11, but don’t cut color B, draw a loop and let it hang.
Stitch count: 6 sl st-v, 2 sl st  

R18 (RS) rep R15, pick up the loop of color B again in last dc, ch1 instead of ch3, turn.  Don’t fasten off color A.
Stitch count: 6 dc-v, 1 dc

R19 (WS) with color B; 1sc in space between first dc and first v-st {pic 1}, sc-v in ch1-sp of each v-st across, 1sc in space between last dc-v and turning chain, don’t fasten off color B, draw up a loop and let it hang.
Stitch count: 6 sc-v, 1 sc

R20 (WS) with the WS facing again, pick up color A again with a sl st in the first sc; ch2 {pic 1}, hdc-v in ch2-sp of each v-st to last v-st, inc hdc-v in last v-st, 1hdc in last sc, switch to color B in the last hdc {pic 2&3}, ch2, turn. Don’t fasten off color A, draw a loop and let it hang.
Stitch count: 5 hdc-v, 1 inc hdc-v, 1 hdc

R21 (RS) hdc-v in ch1-sp of each v-st across, 1hdc in space between last v-st and turning chain. Don’t fasten off color B, but draw a loop and let it hang.
Stitch count: 7 hdc-v, 1 hdc 

R22 (RS) with the RS facing again, pick up the loop of color A again with a sl st through the space between the turning chain and first v-st; ch1, 1sc in the same space, sc-v in ch1-sp of each v-st across, 1sc in the last hdc, switch to color B in the last sc {pic 1&2}, ch3, turn. Fasten off color A.
Stitch count: 7 sc-v, 1 sc

R23 (WS) with the wrong side facing; dc-v in ch1-sp of each v-st to the last v-st, inc dc-v in last v-st, 1dc in last sc, switch to color A in last dc, don’t fasten off color B, but draw up a loop and let it hang.
Stitch count: 6 dc-v, 1 inc dc-v, 1 dc

R24 (RS) rep R11, but with color A instead of color B, fasten off color A.
Stitch count: 8 sl st-v, 2 sl st 

R25 (RS) with the right side facing again, pick up the loop of color B again with a sl st through the space between the first dc and first v-st; ch3, dc-v in ch2-sp of each sl st-v across, 1dc in space between last dc-v and turning chain {working over the last sl st}, ch3, turn.
Stitch count: 8 dc-v, 1 dc

R26 (WS) rep R3, change to color A in the last dc, turn. Don’t fasten off color B, but draw a loop and let it hang.
Stitch count: 8 dc-v, 1 dc 

R27 (RS) rep R24.
Stitch count: 8 sl st-v, 2 sl st 

R28 (RS) pick up the loop of color B again with a sl st through the space between the first dc and first v-st; ch3, inc dc-v in first v-st, dc-v in ch2-sp of each sl st-v across, 1dc in space between last dc-v and turning chain {working over the last sl st}, ch3, turn.
Stitch count: 7 dc-v, 1 inc dc-v, 1 dc

R29 (WS) rep R26.
Stitch count: 9 dc-v, 1 dc

R30 (RS) rep R24.
Stitch count: 9 sl st-v, 2 sl st  

Repeats

Each new repeat will use the colors in the following order: B/C, C/D, D/E, E/F, F/G, G/H, H/I, I/J, J/K. For example: Repeat 1 uses color B instead of A and C instead of B, Repeat 2 uses C instead of A and D instead of B.  

Repeat 1&2, R31-90: ch3, rep R3, after that R8, after that the whole sequence of R3-R30 again. Do the same for Repeat 2. Stitch counts: Repeat 1: 17 v-st, Repeat 2: 25 v-st

Repeat 3, R91-108: ch3, rep R3, after that R8, after that R3 twice, after that the sequence of R11-24 again. Stitch count: 30 v-st   

Repeat 4-7, R109-172: ch3, rep R3 twice, after that rep the sequence of R11-24 again. Do the same for Repeat 5, 6 and 7. Stitch counts: Repeat 4: 34 v-st, Repeat 5: 38 v-st, Repeat 6: 42 v-st, Repeat 7: 46 v-st

Repeat 8, R173-179: ch3, rep R3, but omit ch3 at the end. Switch to color B in last dc, ch1. After that rep the sequence of R19-24 again. Stitch count: 48 v-st

Repeat 9, R180-191: ch3, rep R3, but omit ch3 at the end. Switch to color B in last dc, ch1. After that rep the sequence of R19-29 again, ch3 at the end and continue with border round. Stitch count: 51 v-st  

Border round (RS): Before you begin, note that you need 20 grams at the start of this round to finish. With color K; rep R3 to end, ch1 and pivot work so the left side is now pointing upwards, don’t turn {you will only work on the RS}. Work 2sc in each row with dc, 2sc in each row with hdc and 1sc in each row with sc {pic 1&2}. Skip the rows with sl st-v’s. When you come to the end of the left side, [2sc, ch2, 2sc] in the starting ch4-sp {pic 3}, pivot work so the right side is now pointing upwards, work sc like established until you reach the beginning of the row again {pic 4}. Cut yarn and work away ends. Block shawl to given measurements.

Row instructions spreadsheet

Notes: This spreadsheet will let you see which colors and stitches to use at a glance and how many v-sts you should have. When it says inc and it’s a right side row, the inc v-st is made in the first v-st, when it’s a wrong side row, the inc v-st is made in the last v-st. The blue and black colors indicate the separation of the repeats.

 

I love to see your creations! Please share on Facebook or tag me on Instagram (@aspoonfulofyarn)! And if you have a question, please don’t hesitate to ask using the contact page.

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Affiliate disclaimer

This post contains affiliate links. When you click this link and purchase something, I will get a small commission, but it will not cost you extra money. This way you can support my blog and I can keep making free patterns.

Copyright 

All patterns are for unlimited personal use. Do not reproduce, sell or publish (parts of) the patterns. Patterns may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full, except for personal use. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited.

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